September 24, 2023

Owl Puss

Find Yourself

Meet Julia Hetta, the Photographer Who Captured Karl Lagerfeld’s Work for the Met Catalog

What quick did you get from the museum?
To keep correct to my personalized design and style. Andrew Bolton was pretty open and required to hear my viewpoint and solution to the project. He was just superb to do the job with, so which include and inspiring. He achieved out to me at an early position of the venture, and that built it doable for exciting conversations. Possessing the time for investigation and contemplation in a undertaking is really worth so significantly these days. I value it deeply.

What variety of exploration did you do?
I attempted to recognize where by Karl’s very own inspiration arrived from: textbooks he go through, art he appreciated. I watched the movies he cherished, old expressionism and black-and-white horror and vampire films like The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari and Dracula. It gave me insight into his desire in shadows and gentle. I viewed documentaries. Amanda Harlech was also so generous with her understanding of Karl and shared individual anecdotes and information. And I experimented with to variety my own concept of who he was from what he was encouraged by.

Andrew writes that you approached the lighting of the catalog shots in various means. Can you elaborate on what they had been and how you decided which to use?
I aimed for a painterly light-weight to make the apparel turn out to be like sculptures and capture the wonderful aspects. I photographed the mannequins in sequences to make unique plates to get all the information for aspects. I also preferred to participate in with shadows in black and white in some of the photographs considering that I felt that was an critical inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld.

A spread from the exhibition catalog

Picture: Stuart Tyson  / Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Can you discuss a bit about your use of curtains?
I experienced found these curtains in Karl Lagerfeld’s possess residence outside the house Paris, and I required to carry particular aspects joined back to Karl’s very own life, so I thought the curtains could perform as a good backdrop. I was so pleased that Andrew Bolton liked the notion and built it achievable.

Stillness is a single aspect of your work. These mannequins remind me of the Swedish Grace period, Orrefors figure engravings, and Millesgården a bit. They also seem to undertaking serenity. What did they evoke for you?
The mannequins felt like timeless sculptures to me.

What is your own romance with vogue/clothes?
I have normally been quite fascinated in garments. It can be a way to existing you. I am not tremendous fascinated in trends, but I grew up in the ’70s, and glitter and glamour weren’t seriously permitted it’s possible which is why magnificence and wonderful clothes are so desirable to me. It was great to invest weeks at the Costume Institute at The Satisfied. Seeing the clothes and the care and regard everyone experienced for them, the atelier exactly where matters get restored, and the wonderful library. I like the plan of having outfits significantly.

What stunned you, or what did you study, when taking pictures these parts?
I was amazed by the array of pieces from Karl’s collections about the a long time. I have these kinds of respect for his overall body of do the job. And I was also so amazed by Andrew Bolton’s information. He understands all the data in depth about the clothes, and I realized a whole lot from him.

Outdated Grasp portraits have impressed some of your function. Do you experience that the shots you have taken for The Met in some way are a portrait of Lagerfeld?
That was my intention, to capture Lagerfeld’s function as a portrait: to use inspiration from his existence [and] experimental approaches he would have liked, these kinds of as solarization and shadows of the mannequins. [I also used] private belongings—such as his gloves, jewelry, and fan—as an homage.